Questions about Lambing

[Jorie StrobelStudent]

Hi there, we have two ewes, that are 3 months pregnant. Wondering, Doc, if you (or anyone else who may have sheep) have a list of things we should have on hand, just in case anything goes wrong? This will be our first experience with birthing animals, so any tips you have would be very appreciated.

Thank You!

1 user thanked author for this post.

Rebekah Carmichael

[MiriamStudent]

Hi Jorie,

I’m not an expert, but this will be my fifth lambing season with my girls, so based on my experience things good to have on hand include:

• Good quality hay / feed (and the usual clean water and bedding). As pregnancy progresses, ewes have less room in their bellies for food but have higher nutritional needs. Ensure they are able to meet those needs with good quality food that will give them enough calories and nutrients. This is especially important if the ewes are carrying more than one lamb, as insufficient calorie intake can lead to pregnancy toxemia more easily. You can determine whether there is a risk of multiples based on:
  • Breed characteristics: Some breeds are more likely to carry litters. Others pretty much only have singlet lambs.
  • Parentage: If one or both parents were from twin or triplet births, the chance of multiple lambs increases.
  • Parity: First time mothers are more likely to carry singlets. However, in a breed that is prone to litters, there may be multiples even on the first pregnancy. For example, I have two Rideau Arcott ewes that were triplets and were bred to a ram that was also a triplet. On their first lambing, one ewe gave twins and the other triplets. Another triplet ewe gave only a singlet lamb her first time, but quadruplets the following year.
• Propylene glycol and a large syringe for oral drenching (giving liquids by mouth). A good idea to have on hand in case of pregnancy toxemia. Sugar water or molasses can work in a pinch if you can’t find it.
• Blackstrap molasses or dried molasses. Mix with a little grain (only if multiple lambs – don’t feed grain first day if singlet lamb, unless mama was getting grain before lambing) or add to water (1/2 cup per gallon warm water) for an after-lambing nutrient drench for the mamas.
• Selenium if your area is deficient (most seem to be – this means the hay will also be deficient). Give sheep mineral or a trace mineral block with added selenium (make sure it is safe for sheep – some beef mineral blocks have levels of copper that are toxic for sheep). If you don’t supplement the mothers, you will need injectable selenium (plus syringe and needle) for the newborn lambs. You can find out whether selenium is deficient in your area by asking neighbours or the local feed store.
• Mineral oil and baking soda. In case of bloat – most likely to occur with rapid feed changes. Sheep do not have much of a burping reflex, so bloat can cause death very quickly. Some people use only mineral oil if they suspect bloat. Putting a dish of baking soda out for the sheep to choose if they wish can be a helpful preventive too.
• Feeding tube and knowledge of how to use it properly – inserting it down the windpipe can kill a lamb. This is a ‘just in case’ a lamb is hypothermic and has no sucking reflex. You will also need a syringe or tiny funnel to put milk through the tube.
• Lamb feeding bottles and extra nipples. You may need to bottle feed a lamb at some point, either as a supplement because mama is not producing enough milk (a little grain can boost production – make feed changes slowly) or as the main course because mama rejected the lamb (restraining to allow nursing is an option, as is milking her to feed the lamb, but non-dairy sheep take a long time to milk).
• Colostrum. Best if mama can feed the baby, but if she has no milk, dies right after lambing (these are rare situations, but best to be prepared), or the newborn lamb gets chilled and needs food while you are warming it, the lamb will need replacement colostrum. Newborn lambs need to drink colostrum within the first 6 hours of life or they will have a weak immune system and be prone to sickness and death. Colostrum (especially sheep) may be difficult to find at a feed store or may be expensive – cheapest option would be to see if a neighbour has a cow and is willing to sell you a litre of frozen cow colostrum to have on hand if needed.
• Lamb milk replacer. This is sometimes difficult to find, so if necessary you can purchase calf milk replacer instead, and add an egg yolk, 1 TBSP of vegetable oil, and 1 TBSP of sugar per 26 oz of mixed replacer (you can leave out the yolk for older lambs a week old or so). Feed 2 – 3 oz per feeding (every two hours for the first couple of days). Do not overfeed a lamb – they are prone to scours (diarrhea) and can perish quickly from that. Be aware that bottle feeding will change the scent of the lamb’s poo, which may cause the mama to reject her baby if they haven’t bonded yet – only bottle feed a newborn if all attempts to get them nursing fail (unless you really want to be responsible for bottle feeding every two hours – not fun)
• Diamond/metal file. In case the lamb has sharp teeth and the mother won’t let it nurse, you can carefully file that down a little. Be careful not to file too much, or the lamb won’t nurse due to a sore mouth.
• Lambing or bonding pen so that the new mama can deliver the babies and bond with them without interference. If you only have two sheep this may not be necessary, but there should be a clean quiet space for the ewes. Be prepared to restrain the mother (halter, head gate, or with your body weight while someone else helps the lamb) if she refuses to let her lamb nurse.
• If the weather is very cold when lambing occurs, a heat lamp may be helpful for keeping newborn lambs warm. This is typically not necessary if the baby is well fed, and if you do use a heat lamp make sure it cannot fall and cause a fire.
• Iodine disinfectant, for the umbilical stump, and any other potential injuries, such as cut teats from sharp teeth. Best if the iodine can be sprayed. You could use an herbal disinfectant instead if you wish.
• Plenty of patience. First time mothers are often total dipsticks and their lambs are not much better. No exaggeration. Ewes may be scared of their lambs and not want to let them feed (especially if they have sharp teeth). Lambs may be hungry but decide they would rather nurse a knee or a bit of wool, even if you shove a teat right in their mouths and squirt milk in there. Worst is when both mama and baby resist feeding. They may eventually figure it out, but you may have to help the dummies out so no one dies. Give them a chance to figure it out first, but don’t wait long to intervene if they’re having trouble. This often means restraining the mama, stripping her teats to ensure good flow, smearing milk on the baby’s face, and (if that is not sufficient) shoving its mouth on the teat while forcing it to stay in place. Try again every hour or so until success is achieved.
• Make sure the babies are feeding. All babies are born with brown fat reserves, which allow them to generate body heat so they don’t die before their first feeding. These reserves are used up rapidly, within the first 4-6 hours of life. If they don’t eat they can get chilled and die of hypothermia even if the weather is not cold.

A well-fed lamb has bright eyes, good energy, a puffy belly, and a warm mouth if you put your finger in. The lamb will wave its tail when it finds the teat (does that if sucking on a piece of wool too though!). You should hear sucking/ lip smacking noises when they drink, and see their bellies puffing out a bit. A hungry lamb typically cries a lot, is lethargic, has dull eyes and a sunken belly. Mouth may feel cold depending on how hungry it is. Check periodically daily for at least a week, as sometimes a mother will initially accept a lamb and then reject a sharp-toothed creature. If mama is unwell (pregnancy toxemia or calcium deficiency/milk fever) her milk production will be too low to sufficiently feed the lamb, so supplemental bottles will be necessary.

• Pre-lambing crotching of the mamas can make the udder more accessible and keep things cleaner.
• If newborn lambs get chilled, you will need to warm them. If the lamb is frozen, fastest way to warm is to place the lamb in a plastic bag (make sure no holes!) and submerse in warm water (not hot!). Be careful not to get the lamb wet – this will erase the mama’s smell from the baby and may cause rejection. Do not wash the baby. Another option would be to place in a warming box (make your own with a heater or hair dryer). Some people use an oven on the lowest setting (monitor very carefully).
• Pay attention to lamb age if the baby gets hypothermia. A newborn lamb (within first 4 hours of life) generally has brown fat reserves – warm first, then feed. A newborn lamb older than 4 hours may be chilled/frozen due to loss of energy reserves and not feeding – give glucose (propylene glycol, or sugar water in a pinch) first, then warm. Do not warm before giving glucose! A lamb that is frozen due to lack of energy reserves will have seizures and die if you try to warm it before giving calories. For lambs older than a day, you can warm and then feed.
• Lambing will often go very smoothly without any help needed, unless you have a breed that needs additional care. Lambs should be born face first with the front hoofs coming out at the same time. Any other position is problematic (should be rare). Lambs will get up usually within the first 30 minutes of being born and start looking for the udder.
• As the lambing date approaches, the ewe’s vulva will begin to soften and loosen. The lamb will move into position within a day of labour beginning, so you may notice the ewe starting to carry her bulk lower down. She may lose her appetite (day of lambing), go off by herself, and you may see contractions. Eventually you will see a water bag come out, and then the lamb. After lambing, the placenta will need to be passed as well. Do not pull the placenta if you see it hanging. That could cause internal damage or break a piece off inside. A retained placenta can become infected and kill the mother. It usually passes without trouble, but that is something to watch for if she starts feeling poorly after lambing and you have ruled out calcium deficiency. Many mamas will want to eat the placenta. Do not interfere – this is nutrient rich and helps her recover more quickly. If you do not see a placenta, she may have eaten it. She will lick (more like nibble) the lamb clean and push it up to its feet. The rest of your sheep may lose their minds panicking about a new creature in their midst.

You will love having lambs! Sheep are great even if they can be very stupid.

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Jodie Masella

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